How can I tell if a piece of Fiesta^® is vintage or Post86? ^Updated!

How can I tell if a piece of pottery has cracks? ^New!

Why do many vintage pieces have three equidistant "flaws" on their bases? ^New!

Can labels or marks make a piece more valuable? ^New!

Which is the salt shaker, and which is the pepper shaker? ^New!

Is it normal for Fiesta^® to change color in the oven? ^Updated!

How do I meet other collectors? ^Updated!

What does it really mean for a piece to be "NOP"? ^New!

Why do the Dishography's "Discontinued" dates for Post86 glazes differ from those on the FTC website? ^New!

Can I take a tour of the FTC factory where Fiesta is made? ^New!

How can I visit the Fiesta Tableware Company Museum? ^New!

What happens if I throw clay in the factory? ^New!

How can I tell if a piece of Fiesta^® is vintage or Post86? ^Updated!

A thorough answer would be long, with many photos. Here are a few reliable rules that will handle many cases:

• If it has a wet foot, it is vintage.
• If the shape has an underside interior (e.g., a pyramid candleholder), check the glaze inside - if it was dipped (i.e., any glaze inside appears solid), it is vintage; if it was sprayed, it is Post86.
• If it has a stamp that mentions "Lead Free", it is Post86.
• If it has a raised "H" on the bottom, it is Post86.

Note that none of the above statements imply any sort of inverse. For example, a wet foot guarantees it is vintage, but a dry foot does not necessarily mean it is Post86.

For some shapes, there are simple visual differences between vintage and Post86 pieces:

The "foot" is the part of the base that the piece rests on; it is typically a raised ring (e.g., on a plate). A "wet" foot is covered in glaze, while a "dry" foot is bare clay. A dry foot typically is created by wiping the glaze off the foot before a glazed piece is set on a rack and fired in the kiln. Many vintage shapes had wet feet, but for such feet to fire properly in the kiln, each piece had to be propped up on sagger pins (typically three metal rods). Thus pieces with wet feet typically have three equidistant "sagger pin marks" on the base. These are part of normal production, and are not considered defects unless they are unusually large or unsightly.

For 1986-2011, the date code is three letters. The first two letters represent the year: "AA" is 1986, "BB" is 1987, and so on. A useful mnemonic is that "NN" is "ninety-nine" (i.e., 1999) and "OO" is 2000. The third letter represents the quarter: "A" is January-March, "B" is April-June, and so on. So "OOA" would indicate a piece made in early 2000.

For 2012-2037, the date code expands to four characters, with three for the year, starting with "AAA". So "EEED" would indicate a piece made in late 2016.

For older pieces, the date code "rules" changed over time, and many pieces have been found with codes that are inconsistent with those rules. (For example, although until 1960 "I" was skipped when assigning letters to months, pieces have been found where "I" indicates a month.) So the date code cannot be an absolute guarantee of when a piece was produced. And the various references do not agree 100% on the finer points of those rules.

The rules, more or less, are as follows:

• 1900-1909: A number for the month (1-12), a digit for the year, and a digit (1, 2 or 3) for the plant.
• 1910-1920: A letter for the month, one or two digits for the year, "L" or "N" for the site (East Liverpool or Newell), and the plant number.
• 1920-1930: A number for the month, one or two digits for the year, and a letter and number for the plant.
• 1930-1960: A letter for the month, two digits for the year, and a letter and number for the plant.
• 1960-1985: A letter for the year, and a letter for the month.

Four versions of the relish side inserts were made, with different heights and wall widths. A good-looking Relish Tray requires that all sides have the same shape. Fortunately, you can tell which is which by looking at the bottom. Two versions have in-mold Fiesta^® marks (and are interchangeable), a third has no mark and a flat bottom, and the fourth has no mark and raised edges on the curved sides of the bottom.

All Betty Bowls with P86 glazes were made by HLC. Vintage Betty Bowls were made by HLC, Gladding-McBean and Red Wing. When placed side-by-side, subtle differences are apparent, but the easiest way to identify the maker is by the variations in the marking on the bottom. The mark consists of three lines: "Betty Crocker", "Trade Mark", and "G M I".

• HLC bowls have an ink stamp: Betty Crocker / (Trade Mark) / G M I. The "B" in "Betty" leans toward the left, and is wide open on the bottom.
• Gladding-McBean bowls have an ink stamp: Betty Crocker / (Trade Mark) / G M I. The "B" in "Betty" is upright and nearly closed on the bottom.
• Red Wing bowls may have an ink stamp: Betty Crocker / TRADE MARK / G. M. I.
• Red Wing bowls may have an impressed mark: Betty Crocker / (Trade Mark) / G M I.

How can I tell if a piece of pottery has cracks? ^New!

Many cracks can be identified by looking at the piece carefully under a bright light. Another way is by tapping - hold the piece loosely (e.g., dangling a cup by the handle), and tap it lightly with a fingernail. If it produces more of a dull thud than a "ring", then there is likely an unseen crack somewhere. Note that the smaller the piece, the harder it will be to hold it loose enough to ring. Another method is to use a blacklight, which can cause make some cracks and repairs easier to spot.

Why do many vintage pieces have three equidistant "flaws" on their bases? ^New!

These are sagger pin marks, and are a result of how the piece is made. Pieces made with wet feet were propped up on sagger pins in the kiln, so the glaze on the foot wouldn't stick to the rack as it is fired. These are part of normal production, and are not considered defects unless they are unusually large or unsightly.

Can labels or marks make a piece more valuable? ^New!

Original advertising labels (such as on Fiesta Kitchen Kraft pieces) can add to a piece's value, even if it is damaged.

In general, marks (e.g., in-mold marks, or ink stamps) are not a significant factor in a piece's value. For example, pieces with multiple marks are unusual, but this does not increase the value of a piece; however some people do enjoy finding and collecting them. A lack of a stamp does not appear to affect the value of a piece, so long as its authenticity is obvious.

A notable exception is certain typically-unmarked vintage Fiesta shapes (such as Fruit Comports). A small number were marked (with an ink stamp) for export to Canada, and some collectors will pay a premium for them.

"The Outlet" usually refers to the Retail Outlet (a.k.a. the Factory Outlet) located at the HLC factory in Newell, WV. It sells new Fiesta^®, Outlet exclusives, some licensed products, and has two "seconds rooms" - one with Fiesta^®, and another with restaurant ware and other lines. Note that HLC also has an "Everything Fiesta^® Outlet Store" in Sutton, WV.

Several times yearly, HLC will hold Tent Sales. These are multi-day events where seconds are sold at even lower prices than usual. The lines can be long, and the wait can be many hours, but people will fill their cars, trucks and vans with discounted dishes. And it's a great place to meet fellow collectors.

There are several sources for prices, including the HLCCA book ("Fiesta^™, Harlequin, and & Kitchen Kraft Dinnerwares"), the latest edition of Huxfords' ("Collector's Encyclopedia of Fiesta"), and eBay. However, prices in general have decreased (for some pieces, significantly) in the past couple of decades - older resources do not reflect the current market. The best indicator is probably recently completed eBay auctions.

There are several options, depending on how much time you're willing to spend, how long you're willing to wait, and how hard you want to work to squeeze every possible dollar out of it:

• Sell it on eBay. It will take a lot of time and a lot of work, but if your photos and descriptions are good, you can do fairly well.
• Sell it on Facebook. There are several Facebook groups where collectors buy and sell dishes. It can be easier, but there are very few protections. Buyers typically are more willing to deal with long-time members whom they know.
• Sell it at an antique mall. The setup is fairly simple, but selling it all could take a while, and all the while you'll be paying for that space (and the mall takes a percentage of your sales).
• Sell it through an auctioneer. They'll also take a cut, but if you have some valuable pieces, and get a good crowd of collectors, you could do fairly well, for a minimum of effort. The most well-known Fiesta^® auctions are held two or three times yearly by Strawser Auctions.

If you are not a collector, keep in mind that buyers can be very fussy about condition. Disclosing all damage up-front will help avoid any issues.

Those marks (most commonly seen on vintage pieces) are usually from contact with silverware. There are a number of polishes that will remove them. Popular choices include Simichrome Polish, Maas Polishing Creme, and Bar Keepers Friend.

Warning: Removing stains involves the use of chemicals that, if not used properly, can damage pottery or decals, so be careful. You may want to experiment with a similar, less valuable piece before attempting to clean anything more valuable. (Note, for example, that the technique described below can damage vintage "red stripe" pieces.)

Another warning: DO NOT USE CHLORINE BLEACH - it can cause "salt damage", which can eventually lift the glaze. It can also soak into cracks, causing a chemical reaction that can last for years, resulting in a "beard" that slowly "grows" out of the crack.

The most common cleaning technique is to soak the piece in 40% hydrogen peroxide. This is a hair bleach, also known as "peroxide bleach". It is sold in various concentrations, so be sure to get the 40%. It is far more powerful than regular (~3%) hydrogen peroxide, so take care to avoid injury or damage. Because it brightens everything it touches, submerge the entire piece to avoid a visible line. A container close to the size of the piece will minimize how much hydrogen peroxide you'll need (but it may require a few bottles). Cover the top of the container with plastic wrap and a rubber band (DO NOT BREATH THE FUMES), and let it sit for about a week. The hydrogen peroxide can be saved and reused.

This is usually due to using a lemon-scented dishwasher detergent. Polishing can remove the sheen. Popular choices include Simichrome Polish, Maas Polishing Creme, and Bar Keepers Friend.

A popular choice for gluing pottery is "Beacon Glass, Metal & More Premium Permanent Glue". It is waterproof, so unlike some products, repaired pieces can be put in a dishwasher. Be careful when using other glues - some (such as Gorilla Glue or Elmer's ProBond) heat up and expand during bonding, and that excess can seep out and require sanding later. If you are looking for professional restoration, popular choices include Broken Arts, Hess Restorations in NYC, and Yesterware Restorations in California.

This can be difficult, depending on the type, and what you are trying to do. Some is thin and rather fragile, whereas others (especially P86 Fiesta^®) are extremely difficult. For drilling, use a diamond-tipped bit, or a bit made specifically for ceramics. It's best to do the drilling underwater (just the tip of the bit, not the entire drill) to help keep the bit from overheating.

Which is the salt shaker, and which is the pepper shaker? ^New!

The salt shaker is the shaker with larger holes, since typically salt is larger than pepper. Or, the salt shaker is the shaker with fewer holes, since salt (in some cultures) is to be used sparingly. Or, the salt shaker is the shaker with more holes, since (in some cultures) pepper was historically more expensive and used sparingly.

Is it normal for Fiesta^® to change color in the oven? ^Updated!

Yes - some Post86 Fiesta glazes will change color when subjected to high heat (e.g., when using a baker in an oven). This is most often reported with Scarlet. It is not permanent - the color will return to normal when the piece cools. Note that modern Fiesta is safe for use up to (but not exceeding) 500 degrees F, but not directly over an open flame.

It depends. The main risks are from uranium, lead, and other metals. The red glaze HLC used for vintage Fiesta^®, Harlequin, Riviera and other lines contained uranium. The radiation levels of these pieces are measurable, but low. Other metals (especially lead) are present in all older pieces. Generally these pieces are considered safe for dining. However, using them for cooking or microwaving can accelerate the leaching of these metals into food. Highly acidic food can also cause this. The FDA recommends that to be safe, food should not be stored in such pottery, even overnight.

Post86 Fiesta^® (i.e., all Fiesta^® produced today) is lead-free, and safe to use for cooking, baking, microwaving, and storage.

The Homer Laughlin China Collectors Association (HLCCA) is a non-profit 501(c)(3) organization for collectors, dealers, historians, etc., who are interested in Fiesta^® dinnerware and the other lines produced by HLC. The HLCCA publishes a full-color quarterly magazine, The Dish. It holds annual conferences featuring seminars, presentations, exhibits, auctions, a dealers' room, and the opportunity to meet people who share similar interests. The organization also has a members-only Facebook group, and an on-line store featuring back issues of The Dish and exclusive limited-edition items.

The HLCCA was founded in 1998 as an all-volunteer, member-operated organization. For more details, and to join, visit the HLCCA website.

How do I meet other collectors? ^Updated!

There are many opportunities to meet others who share your dish obsession:

• Join one of the many Facebook groups for dish collectors
• Join the HLCCA, join their (members-only) Facebook group, attend an HLCCA conference (and volunteer)!
• Loiter in antique malls
• Attend a Tent Sale
• Attend a Strawser Fiesta^® auction (in Indiana)
• Attend a local get-together - these are usually organized via the various Facebook groups

A Dish Fairy is a mysterious creature who does something nice for a dish collector. For example, collectors have been known to receive dishes they've been looking for, from (frequently anonymous) Dish Fairies.

AD = After Dinner (a.k.a demitasse), usually in reference to small cups or teapots
BOGO = Buy One Get One (e.g., "a BOGO (free) sale")
C&S = Cup and saucer
DH = Dish husband, the (male) spouse of a dish collector
EL = East Liverpool, Ohio, where there are/were many pottery companies. (HLC is just across the river in Newell, West Virginia.)
ELHSAA = East Liverpool High School Alumni Association, which hosts an annual charity auction usually featuring limited and numbered Fiesta^® pieces
F2K = Fiestaware 2000^® (a.k.a. F2000, FW2000)
FCOA = Fiesta^® Club of America, a former dish collectors' organization that predates HLCCA
FTC = Fiesta^® Tableware Company, the makers of Fiesta^® dinnerware and many other lines of pottery
H = Harlequin
HLC = Homer Laughlin China Company, the makers of Fiesta^® dinnerware and many other lines of pottery
HLCCA = Homer Laughlin China Collectors' Association
IM = Instant Message
KK = Kitchen Kraft
MG = Medium Green, the most collectible color of vintage Fiesta^®
MIB = Mint in box
MOM = Moon Over Miami (a popular P86 decal)
NOM = Noon Over Miami (a popular P86 decal)
NOP = Not officially produced
P86 = Post-'86, which refers to Fiesta^® made since it was reintroduced in 1986
PM = Private/Personal Message
SOL = String of Lights (a popular P86 holiday decal)
T&J = Tom & Jerry (Mug), another name for the vintage Fiesta^® Mug
TCOS = Turquoise Covered Onion Soup (Bowl)
TDSH = Tripod Dish, Square-Handled
WAG = Wells Art Glaze
WTB = Want to buy
WTT = Want to trade

What does it really mean for a piece to be "NOP"? ^New!

What does it really mean for a piece to be "NOP"? ^New!

"NOP" is an acronym that stands for "Not Officially Produced". In practice, it is an imprecise term indicating any of a number of possible scenarios:

• It was a prototype or test piece, never put into production, and not sold to the public.
• It was made by accident (e.g., using the wrong glaze).
• It was made by someone for fun, or for their own personal use.
• It was found somewhere (e.g., in the factory, or at a garage sale), and nobody knows how or why it exists.
• etc.

Some NOP pieces are locked away at the factory. Some are actually in use at the factory (such as the NOP Small Goblets that have been spotted on a few desks). Some have been given as gifts. Some have shown up in the "Seconds Room" at the Retail Outlet, or at the Tent Sale. Some have somehow escaped. And some have been auctioned by HLC/FTC (or donated by them to other auctions) to benefit various charities.

NOP-ness reflects the circumstances of a piece's creation - not what happens to it years later. So the Dishography does not remove a piece's NOP status if it eventually has been, in some way, "released" by HLC/FTC. Unless, of course, it was put into regular production.

Most tidbit trays & tiered servers were made by third parties, not HLC. An exception is the Epicure Tidbit Tray, which is included in the Epicure Dishography.

Why do the Dishography's "Discontinued" dates for Post86 glazes differ from those on the FTC website? ^New!

The Dishography's discontinued date is based on the date the HLC/FTC announced that production of that glaze would stop.

Vintage Fiesta^® in Turquoise comes in a variety of shades. Some of those shades have a green tint, and approach the shade of Spruce used on Harlequin - much closer to it than to the typical shade of Turquoise, but not an exact match. Given this, it is generally believed that all such vintage Fiesta^® is actually Turquoise.

First, check the Scope and the Ground Rules (see About the Dishography) to ensure it is relevant. Second, please understand that the Dishography tries to stick to certainties, not rumors or recollections - photos, pointers to websites, or rarities shipped to me directly are the best evidence. That being said, you can send any reports to the author via Facebook.

Because HLC did not keep complete records of everything they produced, there is no definitive source for this information. This website (dishog.com) contains several "Dishographies" for various HLC lines, but this information will likely always be incomplete.

"Dishes" is a documentary about collecting Fiesta^® dinnerware. Much of it was filmed at the 2003 HLCCA Conference, and at the 2003 HLC Warehouse Sale. Several people in the film are still active in HLCCA and on-line. Amy Levine, the producer/director/writer/editor, has occasionally posted in on-line groups. For more info, and to order a copy on DVD, visit the Dishes website.

Can I take a tour of the FTC factory where Fiesta is made? ^New!

Yes! Information on tours can be found on the FTC website. Note that tours must be requested in advance, and two weeks notice is recommended. Also note that whenever the annual HLCCA conference is held in Pittsburgh, attendees get a special tour of the factory (typically including various things not on the public tour) as part of an entire morning spent at the factory.

How can I visit the Fiesta Tableware Company Museum? ^New!

A visit to the Museum is included with the FTC factory tour. It is small, but has an impressive selection of products from the company's history, including rarities, prototypes and other one-of-a-kind pieces. It is located next to the Retail Outlet, so if you're there shopping, you might get lucky.

What happens if I throw clay in the factory? ^New!

"Anyone caught throwing clay will be subject to immediate discharge"